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When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.